The chain. This necklace features a bookchain, a Victorian-style chain in which the links are rectangular, folded pieces of metal. Each link resembles a book.
The metal. Brass was commonly used in this period, before platinum became popular in the Edwardian era. Copper was also often used, but based on the yellow undertones beneath the patina (vs. red for copper), I believe this to be brass.
The beads and stones. After the death of Prince Albert , Queen Victoria went into mourning for many years. Consequently, black clothing and jewelry became highly fashionable. Because not everyone could afford onyx and vulcanite, black glass or French jet (aka black amber) was used to adorn jewelry.
The repousse medallions – The what, you ask? The black cabochons are set within each medallion that is done in the raised repousse style. This technique originated in the earlier Georgian period (1714-1837) to make gold and other valuable metals give you more “oomph” for the buck. By taking a thin sheet of metal, craftsmen would stamp the metal into a raised pattern to give the appearance of a solid object, for instance, a solid gold butterfly. In reality, these pieces were hollow, much more lightweight and practical.
The clasp – This part was a toughie. After a few nights of researching Victorian jewelry, I discovered that the circle spring clasp wasn’t used until 1930. Dang. After reading further, though, I learned that it was quite common to replace the clasps on older necklaces, which often broke due to age and wear. So the fact that this has a replacement clasp is not a deal-breaker after all.
So there you have it. This necklace is a pretty gorgeous example of Victorian jewelry and a fun story to tell at your next party — especially if you’re wearing it!